Orientation
I guess the first thing to know is that Hong Kong is separated into two areas - Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. Hong Kong Island is the original British Hong Kong settlement while Kowloon (on the mainland) has emerged more recently and has a decidedly more local feel - Hong Kong Island having been inhabited by the British for so long and continuing to be an expat hub. I live on the Island so I have to apologise if my advice is biased towards that area.
Markets
Hong Kong is known for its eclectic and colourful markets and there are many types depending on what you like to see and do. Since moving to HK I shop mainly in markets, where you can get fresh food, cheap clothes, DIY fashion materials and more direct from locals. A little tip - don’t be put off by the abrupt demeanor of the average Cantonese market seller, it's totally normal!
Central Wet Markets
Aptly named the ‘Wet Markets’ (puddles of fishy water linger on the sidewalks), these markets sell fresh food, such as fruits and veggies, live seafood, meat and all manner of other things (toads, live birds for eating etc). Not for the faint hearted, they are definitely a place to get in touch with the local flavour of HK. The wet markets in central on Hong Kong Island, stretching downhill on Graham Street between Hollywood Road and Queens Road are particularly interesting and make for some great photo opportunities. There are also wet markets in Sheung Wan, Mong Kok,and Causeway Bay but most of these have been relocated from their original alleyway locations into ‘cooked food markets’ and are not nearly as interesting.
Cat Street Antique Markets & Sheung Wan
These gorgeous local markets (Upper Lascow Row off Hollywood Road, Hong Kong Island) mainly sell Chinese antiques like retro Mao statues and antique Communist posters. There are also a lot of little junk shops around this area that also specialize in antiques from a range of different eras - and just about anything else you could want. Definitely worth a look if you like to dig, you might even be lucky enough to find some vintage clothes – I posted here about one of my recent finds and some pics of the markets. The Sheung Wan neighbourhood is also lovely to just wander around too - it has an interesting mix of old world chinese charm and boutiques and design studios. The recent opening of a Lomo and Aesop store in this area shows that the cool kids are moving on in. Check out a post I did here on my Sheung Wan neighbourhood. Man Mo temple on Hollywood Rd is good for a visit in this area.
Markets around Prince Edward Station
Not to be missed, in Mongkok (Kowloon side) there is the Bird Markets, Flower Markets and the tropical Fish Markets (a whole street full of shops selling tropical fish) all around Prince Edward Station. Wandering this area is a fantastic day of sightseeing - its one of my favourite parts of Hong Kong. Apparently it’s one of the most densely populated places on earth so you can see why there’s so much hustle and bustle. While you're in the area walk down Nathan Road through Mongkok, there are a few markets including the Ladies and Temple Street Markets that are interesting, although often pretty junky selling fakes but often good for a laugh. I would also recommend heading to the Jade Markets in Mongkok, there is good selection of really pretty Jade and also other jewellery made from lots of different stones. Remember to bargain ruthlessly when at these places.
Shopping
Hong Kong is without a doubt the home of the shopping mall and there are enough mid to high end stores around Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon and Central/Causeway Bay on Hong Kong Island to satisfy even the most brand conscious shopper – and drive you a little bit crazy too!
Causeway Bay is a good place to start for new clothes, there is every major store you can imagine as well as a number of little boutiques around Yiu Wah Street west of Percival Road. Check out the Island Beverly Centre across from Sogo in Causeway Bay for a huge concentration of very cute Korean boutiques – not to be missed! Also, Fashion Walk has a number of more boutique style high end brands.
Malls/Department stores to check out? Head to Lane Crawford, the one in the IFC in Central (HK Island) is good - amazing brands and all the newest collections. Also, Joyce in Central on Queens Road is gorgeous, its an amazing small scale department store with all the best brands and newest collections, I was in there recently scouting for DIY inspiration and didn't want to touch anything haha. On Kowloon Side I would head to iSquare the shopping centre or perhaps Harbour City or Elements in the ICC.
The Day Trip to End All Day trips
If you have time I would also recommend a day trip up to Shenzhen. I guess the first thing to note is that it’s a fun place but not for the scenery. A city on the border of HK in China, it’s basically the retail outlet for the whole of the Pearl River Delta - the manufacturing hub of China. Anything you buy that says ‘made in china’ which, ahem, is just about everything, probably comes from somewhere in the PRD. Catch the East Rail Line and it takes about an hour. Shenzhen is over the border at Lo Wu, the very last stop on the line. You will have to get a visa for the Shenzhen Economic Zone at the entry point (if you don't already have a China visa) and go through immigration - but it’s pretty straightforward. Make sure you check whether you are allowed to get a visa, I think it depends on your country of origin – I know Australia and NZ citizens are allowed but I think it’s more difficult for other countries such as the US. These things change often so check before you go.
There is a huge shopping centre next to immigration (random I know but that’s how they roll in China) filled with small shops with shoes and bags and everything you could imagine. Some of it is junk but if you look in the right places you can definitely score some amazing finds, they have stores with lots of sample clothes from good designers (I saw a bit of Alexander Wang, Sonia Riekel, Chloe etc last week).
Eating, Drinking and General Merry-making
Hong Kong has so many eating, drinking and partying options it’s hard to know where to start. Here’s a few of my top places to go:
Make sure you head up to Sevva the bar on HK Island if the weather is nice, it’s the best place for an evening drink in HK and the view is amazing. If you want to have a blow out dinner head to Hutong in Kowloon, an amazing restaurant styled like a Chinese village, make sure you order the lantern chicken for which they are well known. If you're on a budget, head up to Aqua for one drink which is above Hutong, another amazing view of the HK skyline which is indoors if the weather is bad. The rooftop bar at the Ritz Carlton in West Kowloon is good for a quick drink with a 360 view of Hong Kong - but definitely lacks atmosphere.
Head to Dragoni for contemporary dim sum – make sure you check out their lunch special and if booking, grab a table outside. They have a terrace complete with cages of birds. Shanghai Tang or Peking Gardens are great for the traditional Peking Duck feast. Sick of Chinese food? Head to Posto Publico on Elgin Street in Soho (Organic Italian), or 208 on Hollywood Road in Sheung Wan (pizza bar).
Head out in Soho, Wanchai or Lan Kwai Fong to experience the night life in HK. It’s pretty rowdy and often a bit feral, but when in Rome right? There are a few nice bars in the LKF Building on Wyndam Street on HK Island, and a secret little speak easy style bar in a basement in the Central Wet Markets (a favorite of mine).
Get Out of Town
Hong Kong can be a really crazy place to visit (as well as live) and sometimes the crowds and general pandemonium can get to you. What most people who visit HK don’t know is that the city has a number of lovely and almost tranquil plaves where you can take some time out from the city. Here are a few of my favourite city escapes:
Walk the Peak
Lots of people catch the tram up to Victoria Peak on Hong Kong Island to enjoy the view over the Harbour . However, if you really want to experience the beauty of the peak, do the Peak Walk instead. There are lots of different trails, but I usually start my peak walk (a Sunday morning ritual if I am ever not hungover) from the entrance to the park on Hatton Road, and either wind my way around the steep ‘Morning Trail’ for a 4km walk or continue along the Pok Ful Ham Reservoir route for the longer 10km walk. The beauty of this country park is in stark contrast to such a built up city, and the views you get over the city – particularly on the ‘morning trail’, are gorgeous and the same, if not better, than what you pay to see up at the lookout. Still want to catch the tram? Make sure you do the walk around the top of the peak when you get up there.
Hit the beach
Head over to Stanley or Sheko beaches on the other side of Hong Kong Island for a little bit of paradise (not as good as Australian beaches but I’ve been too spoilt in the past!), both these beaches you can get to by taxi or public transport. They also have great hikes which take you there too – Stanley’s 1000 Steps and Sheko’s Dragon’s Back are beautiful and well worth doing. Also, a jaunt around Lamma Island is great fun but slightly tarred by a massive powerstation as the backdrop.
Get on the Bay
When I first moved to HK I was completely surprised by how gorgeous the bay is – particularly the more natural areas once you get out of the Harbour, you could literally be anywhere – Thailand or Croatia spring to mind. A cheap way to experience it is to head out on a ferry to Lamma or one of the other Islands, or if you really want to get amongst it, head out on a junk.
Shopping for DIY
It wouldn't be a trip to HK without a good stock up on DIY materials. In this city you will find that anything you need for DIY is available at bargain basement prices. Best places to check out? If you’re around Prince Edward Station as I mentioned above, you may also want to venture west into Sham Shui Po, where the streets are packed with stores selling everything you could ever want for DIY, fabrics, buttons, chains – ok well everything. There is also a rundown looking fabric market opposite the police station in Sham Shui Po with by far the most well priced fabrics in HK. Other key places to check out if you are into DIY fashion and craft? The top floor of the Western Markets on HK Island in Sheung Wan have the most beautiful fabrics but, while still cheap compared to other countries, are on the pricier side. Check out the Pottinger Street staircase on Hong Kong Island which is lined with shops selling DIY bits and bobs like buttons, trimmings, beaded applique, leather, ribbons etc.
Here's a google map I did highlighting a few things to do -I'll be adding to it as I go along.
View Bloggers Guide to Hong Kong in a larger map